#21- Yelp Review by Alina M.

Her Post: 6/4/2016

Do not waste your time and money on this place. She will charge you prior to your appointment and then will give your appointment to someone else. The place is small and difficult to find because there are no signs. I have been doing the keratin treatment for 7 years now and I have never had such a disastrous experience! Absolutely unacceptable!

My Response: 6/9/16

""This reviewer has never been a client of unsprung. Nor have they prepaid an appointment. And never in the history of UnSprung, has anyone's prepaid appointment/package/gift certificate/etc ever been given to anyone else.

After being notified of this review, I sent the following text to the reviewer::

"Hi there
I got notification of your review and before I respond to it publicly, I wanted to make sure there wasn't a misunderstanding.
I do take pre-payment upfront to book a spot for first time bookers.  Until the appointment is paid for,  it is not booked.  You did not want to pay over the phone, so you decided to come to the salon for payment.  You asked me to hold your spot and I said no.  When you came in, four days later,  your preferred spot was filled,  as I warned you it would be.  I gave you an excellent referral,  of another stylist that I know you'd like.
That is my understanding. Your review states that I charged you for an appointment then gave it to another client.  That  is untrue.
If there has been a misunderstanding, I'd love to work it out and clear the air.  I will wait a couple days to respond to your review since I think that's fair.  And if I haven't heard back from you,  I will respond publicly to your review and include this communication with it.
Sincerely"

I have not heard back.""

This client was a first time booker and did not want to handle her prepayment over the phone, which is fine. She was informed that appointment times are only officially booked for first timers when they are paid for. No exceptions. Also, I requested that she let me know when she planned to come in to prepay so I could ensure I would be in the salon. I sent my address, but no parking directions or any other information as to how to find the salon. 4 days later, I received a text that she was at the address but couldn't find the salon. Not surprising. I went out and directed her towards the salon. Once in the salon, she laid down cash and stated the day and time she wanted. That day had booked, which I warned her it would be. I gave her the info for another stylist who could possibly get her in. She picked up her cash and left. About an hour later, I received a notification of Alina's review. Both myself and my client(who witnessed Alina's visit to the salon) were suprised by her review. In my opinion, there is no part of her review that reflects her experience with UnSprung. 

#1- I want to go curly again. How do I get rid of the keratin aka. Semi-permanent Straightening(SP-S)?

SP-S sticks to everyone very differently. The manufacturer says is will last up to 4 months. This should mean that in 4 months, the treatment is gone. However, that is certainly not true for everyone. SP-S  can stick permanently to some hair, while it can completely dissolve off of others within a couple months. IF you are a person who's hair loves keratin, you may not have much luck removing it. But, if you're really motivated, you could do the following:

1. switch all your products to ones containing salt/sodium chloride.
2. dissolve salt into water, in a spray bottle, and spritz the hair down and let it sit as long as you can. Repeat daily or whenever you like.

If your problem is more about blending the curly roots with the straight ends, and your ultimate goal is having the healthiest hair possible, try going wavy with the ends. Hot rollers do a nice job of adding wave.  

If your goal is to still have some wave in the hair, but the ends are too straight due to SP-S accumulation, you can use products with salt in them, only on the ends, in order to pull out some keratin. This helps even out the wave overall.

#2-Yelp Review by Moonbeam R.

I'm responding to this for the benefit of potential clients looking to find a stylist. When I am searching reviews, looking for a service provider,  I look to see what the owner has to say for themselves following a poor review. It can shed light.  I came across this review about 5 months after it was posted. I don't know who it is, but that's fine. I'm assuming this is a legit client with an actual experience.
This is the review:


"***   1/20/2015    

I went to her after seeing all these 5-star reviews but was disappointed. Her place is really small and dark, which doesn't really matter but what got to me were the fumes. It made me nauseous. And she just kept talking on and on (except when she had the mask on) which didn't help with the nausea. Afterwards, I followed ALL of her instructions and even got the proper shampoo but the results were not good at all. It was still frizzy and curly.
But there were some good points: She is very nice. She is very knowledgeable. My hair wasn't damaged. It was easier to straighten my hair with hot iron at home (kind of defeated purpose of the straightening process.....).
I've had my hair  before by someone else and it had actually lasted a couple of months and looked good! So I know it can be done. I just haven't found someone to do it in Portland yet. So my search still continues......"

My response is;

First off, it's true :) I can chit-chat too much, especially when over caffeinated :) My sincere apologies to Moonbeam, and everyone else, who gets me on a particularily chatty day. I can even annoy myself, so please don't hesitate in letting me know you'd prefer quiet. I actually also prefer that as well.

Salon being small and dark: Not much I can do about that, and I am certain it does not interfere with the straightening service.

Fumes: Yes, I also think they are totally nauseating, which is why I wear a respriator. Folks who are sensitive to the fumes(like myself) will be greatly bothered by them. I highly recommend clients bring a respirator with them(Before Covid, a respirator was provided, but that in no longer the case). The respirator entirely eliminates the problem for sensitive people. Some clients are greatly affected by the fumes and some clients like the smell of them..... to each his own.

Expectations: Anyone who reads through my websight knows that I absolutely do not, and never have, stated that semi-permanent Straightening will eliminate the need for flatironing/styling. In fact, I clearly state that everyone should come in with no expectations since SP-S will take to everyone differently. And it is impossible to predict what the results will be. No brand of SP-S on the market will guarantee results that are flatironed straight. Most only go as far as advertising that their product is good for "Smoothing".  That is absolutely not what SP-S was ever intended to do.

Now, the thing that I am most concerned with is that Moonbeam feels that another SP-S service she had, actually went straighter. Of course, being someone who wants to have the best product available to mankind, I would love the opportunity to find out more about the service she is comparing my service to. Unfortunately, since she is anonymous, I have no way of finding out what exactly she had done, and if it was a SP-S or some kind of mis-marketed permanent straightening. This is entirely unhelpful for me and for potential clients looking for a stylist. If moombeam had listed the brand, or salon, or stylist that she thought was better, we'd have something to go on, and I might have something helpful or insightful to say about it.  All brands reformulated a few years ago, so it's entirely likely that she had the original version of some brand used on her, which would explain why it might have stuck better since the original formulas were stronger. Also, there is a list of variables, a mile long, as to why else the treatment didn't seem to do as well.....but, alas, we will never know. None the less, I have no hard feelings and should Moonbeam choose to ever give me a second try, her/his treatment will be free of charge, sincerely.

I stand behind my work and all clients are seriously encouraged to let me know when disappointments happen. It is absolutely imperative to all my clients that I am made aware of any kind of disappointment, asap. It is a disservice to all my clients to not allow me the opportunity to asses an issue and improve the service as a result. To be disappointed and then post an incomplete review, withholding critical information regarding a place/brand that may be superior, truly serves no one. Not the potential clients, nor the current clients of UnSprung.

We're all in this together, as guinea pigs, so lets help each other out as much as we can.  :)
Sincerely,
UnSprung

#3- New and Unusual Flakes. Why the dandruff?

There are at least 2 reasons why dandruff can happen after a semi-permanent straightening.

1.The product that adheres to the hair can also adhere to the scalp. As the scalp skin cells shed, the product sheds off as well, creating large flakes. It is fairly impossible to keep every speck of product off the scalp, so the product that ends up on the scalp gets cooked on during the flatironing.

2.The semi-permanent straightening product can upset some people's skin and start them on a path of flakiness that can last months. Not sure why.

Either way, the quickest way to resolve this is:

1. Prior to shampooing, with the hair totally dry, exfoliate the scalp using a scratchy comb, brush or whatever works. Scrub the skin, lift up the flakes, then shampoo and condition as usual. You might need to exfoliate the scalp prior to the first several shampoos as the skin can take a week or so to shed and release the stuck on product.
2. Use a dandruff shampoo that does not contain Sodium Chloride. After exfoliation, shampoo with the dandruff shampoo of your choice. Really work it into the scalp and then let it sit for several minutes. Rinse and condition as usual.

#4- Is Semi-Permanent Straightening more toxic than Permanent? Why do you wear a respirator?

I started wearing a respirator, long before I started doing SP-S, at the recommendation of my E.N.T.. I had irritation in my throat and sinuses from breathing in the ammonia gas that comes off of Permanent Straightening. The following describes the toxicity of ammonia gas:

"What is ammonia’s mechanism of action?
Ammonia interacts immediately upon contact with available moisture in the skin, eyes, oral
cavity, respiratory tract, and particularly mucous surfaces to form the very caustic ammonium
hydroxide. Ammonium hydroxide causes the necrosis of tissues through disruption of cell
membrane lipids (saponification) leading to cellular destruction. As cell proteins break down,
water is extracted, resulting in an inflammatory response that causes further damage.

What are the immediate health effects of ammonia exposure?
Inhalation: Ammonia is irritating and corrosive. Exposure to high concentrations of ammonia
in air causes immediate burning of the nose, throat and respiratory tract. This can cause
bronchiolar and alveolar edema, and airway destruction resulting in respiratory distress or
failure. Inhalation of lower concentrations can cause coughing, and nose and throat irritation.
Ammonia's odor provides adequate early warning of its presence, but ammonia also causes
olfactory fatigue or adaptation, reducing awareness of one's prolonged exposure at low
concentrations."

The doctor considered my irritation quite severe. At the time, I was doing @8-10 hours of permanent straightening(PS) per day, and breathing in ammonia gas the entire time. SO! In comparison to that, SP-S don't feel toxic at all. :) There is formaldehyde gas that comes off during the flat ironing part, but unless it blows directly into the face, it is not detectable. Whereas, the Ammonia gas that comes off during PS is very very noticeable and would affect everyone on our floor if we didn't ventilate. When SP-S is done without ventilation, the fumes don't make it into the hallway past the door.
The bottom line is that both are toxic to breath in. And, some people are going to be really sensitive to the fumes of both, and some people are not going to be sensitive to either. I happen to be a very sensitive person to fumes, so the only way I could continue to work with either method is with the use of a respirator. Many hairdressers quit the business because they can't tolerate the fumes or the handling of product. And, many clients avoid the straightening services because they don't want the exposure. Wearing a respirator solves that problem for both stylists and clients.
The unique thing about SP-S is that it's new and there are no long term affects known to hairdressers, yet. Also, the unfortunate thing is that some companies are marketing the product as "all natural", insinuating that it's non-toxic, which is totally deceptive. Therefore, hairdressers and clients incorrectly assume that a stylist wearing a respirator must be dealing with a "bad, toxic, under the table" version of solution. This couldn't be further from the truth. I wear a respirator because I'm dealing with gasses of known toxicity, and unknown long term affect, on a daily basis. It would be just plain stupid to put myself in an environment with ANY potential exposure on a daily basis, and not protect myself. I've done a couple SP-S treatments without the respirator, and it doesn't affect me negatively like the permanent, but it would be foolish to think that means it's not going to ever affect me. If I had to choose which process was the most toxic, I would pick the permanent straightening since I can feel the negative affects immediately. Also, this might be too much info, but if I do a permanent straightening without gloves and respirator, I can smell ammonia the next morning in my urine. Very much like the asparagus phenomena. That tells me that the ammonia is getting in my system somehow, going through it, and then coming out. That is scary. I have never noticed that with SP-S, but that certainly doesn't vouch for it's safety.
I wear a gas mask with an attached particle filter,  during SP-S because during the flat ironing, a smoke comes off that includes fine little particles of polymer amongst other things. This is very irritating to breath in. This particulate clogs up the fans, window screens, and the intake of the blowdryers. We don't want it clogging up our lungs.

#5-Does Keratin really straighten hair?

Keratin does not straighten the hair. Keratin is not a new found ingredient, and has been available, along with all the other types of proteins, for many years. There are plenty of excellent protein treatments out there(Noiraude Pro, Nigelle DS, PPT heat polymerizing protein treatments...) that build up the hair, but they've never had straightening abilities. And if you overuse some proteins, the hair gets crunchy and dry, and even cause breakage from the hair getting so brittle. A good protein treatment lasts @ a month or two,and over time can really protect the hair and keep it in optimal health. Now imagine taking that protein treatment and adding a catalyst that would give straightness..... now we're talking SP-S as we know them today.

When it comes to the actual purpose of keratin in current SP-S formulas, it might very well add a strengthening or fortifying component, just like a standard protein treatment. Removing keratin from SP-S might take away the strengthening affect, and whatever improved texture it might give to the hair over time. However, no matter what, the keratin is not responsible for the actual straightening effect. 

Pretend that all SP-S formulas are like various brownie recipes. You can add extra goodies to a basic brownie recipe(nuts, frosting, marshmellows....), but it's not required. With SP-S the various companies add their "flavor" to the basic working formula, but they're all considered "SP-S" because the chemical reaction is basically the same. They might add things for shine, smell, weight, softness, etc. And some SP-S really do feel better in the hair. Some do not interact with artificial color as much.....all based on the way they put the ingredients together. They all tweak the amount of the various working-ingredients(percentage​s of formalin, glycols....) to add longevity or stickability, or simply just to make it different than the next guy.
Below is a list of ingredients of a brand of SP-S we've tried:

water, keratin, propylene glycol, cetearyl alcohol, cetrimonium chloride, formaldehyde, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane & dimethicone, fragrance.

In general, the formalin and the Glycol-related-ingredient get together to create plastic/polymer which temporarily fixes the hair's bonds in place. Both the Formalin and Glycol have many chemical siblings that product plastics and polymers, such as Nylon, Teflon, Permanently Pressed Clothing, etc...Keratin is the 2nd ingredient from the top, but it is NOT what straightens the hair. Water is the first ingredient, and it does not straighten the hair either....Realize that hair itself is made of keratin, and it does not straighten itself....


A quick Wikipedia search sums up the overall concept :
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F​ormaldehyde
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/P​olymer
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/P​ermanent_press

Here is another interesting websight on plastics:
http://www.plasticsindustry.co​m/types-plastics-fmn.asp

#6- What are the differences between Keratin, Brazilian straightening and Semi-Permanent Straightening(SP-S)?

They're all the same. Just different names.
All of the Keratin treatments, Brazilian Treatments, SP-S etc, follow the general format given below:
1.Treatment solution is applied to clarified and towel dried/or blown dry hair.
2.let to sit from 0-60 minutes to absorb
3.blown dry completely
4.flat ironed at @350-450 degrees, or blow out with a blow dryer and round brush for shorter lasting results.
5.not neutralized.
6.Smooth out frizz and curl to various degrees.
7.contains some precursor ingredient to a polymer
8.cost @$250-360 wholesale for @32-33oz bottle of solution.
9. 0-4 day waiting period before 1st wash, after treatment.
10.Treatment takes @ 1.5-5 hours depending on thickness, length, dry timing, number of stylists working on a client.
11.Going price is @150-450, which completely depends on stylist mark up. The various solutions cost about $8-11 per oz. and 1 treatment will use @1-4 oz/client depending on hair.
12.All companies we've seen so far say to only use products that are sodium chloride free, or sulfate free.
13.These treatments do not break bonds within the hair, they over ride the bonds. The effects are usually not permanent and usually wear off in 1-4 months depending on which product is used. The coating adds shine in general.
14.These treatments can be done over all other chemical treatments including Sodium Hydroxide products, Thio products, and color services.
15.These products hit the market in @2007, in America.

If the product you're looking to use, generally follows the above guidelines, then we lump them into the Keratin/SP-S category. The reason for the term "Brazilian" is because the technology of over riding bonds instead of breaking them, seems to have been made popular in Brazil. 

#9- Tips for the waiting period

1.I have found that SP-S is definitely NOT usually impressionable as long as the hair does not get wet. I've worn my hair up in clips the entire waiting period, without a problem. HOWEVER, this will not apply to everyone, and you run the risk of impressions if you do this. 

2.At night, I resort to using a large silky scarf, Beyonce style. I comb the hair down smooth and tie the scarf over the top. I find that if I use a cotton scarf, that helps wick some oil off the scalp. This keeps the hair smoother during sleep and it keeps it out of my face.

3.I also use blotting papers for wicking oil off the scalp and hairline. Since the hair is coated, the natural oil is not absorbed at all into the hair like it normally would be. Instead, it slides down the hairshaft.

4.As many times during the day as possible, I warm up my hair with the blowdryer and brush through it, detangling it and transferring some of the oil down the hair. This also helps to removed hair that has shedded out, but is still stuck in the hair.

5. I have not found any solution for the "sprouts". Even after wearing a scarf for hours, the sprouts come back. After the first couple of shampoos, they are sometimes still there! People usually think that these are evidence of breakage. They 99% of the time, are not. The reason "sprouts" happen is because SP-S gives a nice strong coating to all the hairs on the head. Every time a hair sheds, one starts growing. There are little hairs, of all lengths, constantly growing out. The SP-S coating keeps the shorter hairs standing up because they are simply too lightweight to tip over. Once the hairs reach @ 2-3 inches long, they are usually heavy enough to tip over. So, all the hairs from 0-@2 inches are the only ones standing up. Not a problem at all.

#8- What is your true opinion on the Semi-Permanent technology?

Here's my schpeel,
Seriously, I LOVE it. I switched from Japanese straightening my hair at Shige Kosuda's salon in Manhattan, to Semi-permanent Straightening(SP-S) in Spring of 2007. The protection that SP-S gives is completely new in the world of hair. No other conditioner, treatment, protein pack, etc.....actually laminates the hair like a SP-S. NOTHING. We've carried all the really nice at-home Japanese treatments, and have done the various in-salon treatments for clients over the years. And, we really loved them.....up until now ;). As far as I'm concerned, SP-S replaces and improves upon ANY other treatment that can be done on the hair to improve health and chemically straighten simultaneously.  I took very very good care of my japanese straightened hair, and still would get split ends when my hair reached collar bone length, simply because Permanent straightening is a bond breaking procedure that weakens the hair, no matter how well it's done. Whereas SP-S is a laminating procedure. All the curl bonds are still strong and connected after SP-S, because they're just overridden, not broken. Forget for a second that SP-S also smooths down the fuzzies, this treatment is perfect for ANYONE who has trouble growing healthy hair. Now, no amount of SP-S coating will protect the hair from frequent flatironing damage. People, you need to stop the flatironing if you want healthy hair, period. But for those of you who don't flatiron and still get damage, like myself, it can be pretty frustrating because you know you're doing everything you can to pamper your hair. I'm telling you, give SP-S a year(3-4 treatments) and you'll be seeing a definite, noticeable difference. You'll feel a difference after one treatment, but the reason I say give it year is because if your hair is already fried, it's fried. The coating will make it feel better, but ultimately the hair is fried. Putting the coating on it will keep it from getting worse off, but if the ends are already split, there's no repairing them, so you need to trim off the splits. But all the hair following that, will be preserved, and multiple treatments really do accumulate up to @3, and fortify the hair amazingly well. In a year, 6 inches of new hair will have grown, and hopefully, 6 inches of old hair have been cut off potentially, so you will really feel like you have a new head of hair. I haven't had one client who didn't notice a difference in the health of their hair after SP-S. There is definitely a place for really nice shampoos and conditioners, but none of them really fortify or preserve the hair beyond several shampoos and they can cost ultimately way more money over a 4 month period than SP-S, depending on what you're buying. 
What else can I say about it......I'm shocked that every single salon is not doing this process. It's such a benefit for the client's hair. Not to be overly dramatic, but with all the other toxic chemical services happening in salons(acrylic nails, bleach fumes, ammonia fumes, aerosol sprays in the air), it's ridiculous to avoid this one. 

#7- I was told that Coppola's Keratin Complex is the only truly semi-permanent straightening system

After attending the Oct.26th, 2009 Coppola Keratin Complex class at UnTangled Salon, we realized why stylists are telling potential clients that all other Keratin Treatment's(SP-S) are permanent, except the Coppola.(We attended the class only because we were told the new clear formula would be demonstrated...which it wasn't. Very disappointing.)
During the class, the instructor actually said that all other forms of  SP-S go permanently straight, except the Coppola. I asked how she came up with that idea, and she said that's what she was taught. This same trainer said that she has trained everyone currently using the Coppola Keratin Complex here in Portland, Oregon, aside from a small window of time. This means that most stylists here will have incorrect information.
Here is the real trouble. Any stylist or client who has NOT done research might actually believe something like,"all other SP-S systems are permanent." Eventually, they will realize their error in thinking, but for stylists, it might be too late. Because of the internet, clients today can be very informed and will loose trust in a stylist who turns out to be incorrect. Unfortunately, we've gotten several clients who intended to go to other salons, but when they talked with the stylist performing the procedure, they realized the stylist knew less about the world of SP-S than they did.
So, if you're a stylist that has ONLY had training or experience in the Coppola Keratin Complex, or you've only been trained by 1 brand, you're in need of more education. It is foolish to automatically believe everything that is told to you by a person selling you a product. Especially when that person has had no experience with other brands and knows nothing outside the training given to them by the company they work for. I have a hard time believing this is still possible in a world with so much access information.            

#10-Why do you not advise to avoid ponytails, barrettes, ear tucks, etc...during the wait period?

Here's the deal. All manufacturers say not to style the hair in any way before the first wash, after the salon treatment process. However, over the years, clients would confess that they had, in fact, worn ponytails, clips, headbands, etc, and no mark was left. So, a contest was started which would reward a client with a free year of straightening, if they could leave a mark in their hair by any means, other than chemistry(sweat, rain, product...) Clients, in great effort to leave marks, did corn rows, micro braids, ponytails, bobby pins, headbands..... everything they could think of. Even after a year or so of all this craziness, not a single mark was ever left. Most of the mark-making-attempts were photographed and emailed to Global Keratin(The brand of SP-S we use) as proof that marks were basically impossible to leave in the hair.  When we asked Global Keratin, "why do you advise clients not to wear ponytails, tuck it behind the ear, etc...", they said that ultimately, we(the stylists) are the experts and could advise the clients however we saw fit. It's clear, however, that when a stylist recommends something contrary to what the manufacturer says, it's the stylist that will look uninformed, not the manufacturer. This point was brought up to them, to which they replied, "Your client should trust that you are doing what's right for them..."The rep at Global Keratin could not say why the brand ever decided on the "no-ponytail/bobby pin/etc" rule.

Humm.....   so basically, I've never seen a mark left, other than if someone got their hair wet, or put product in the hair during the wait period. I personally wear a head band, and ponytail the entire duration of the wait period. Most clients do as well.

#11-Do heat protectants really protect hair from damage caused by thermal styling tools?

Really, people ask this all the time. I'm frustrated with all the individuals promoting products that claim to actually prevent heat damage. These products include leave-in conditioners, serums, sprays and even flat irons themselves.

Heat from thermal tools is what straightens or curls hair. The hotter the thermal tool is, usually the faster it works. If a product stopped heat from reaching the hair(thermally protecting the hair), the hair would not straighten or curl. If you could straighten your hair without heat, you wouldn’t have to turn the thermal tool on..... Heat is what styles the hair and heat is what damages the hair. And all of the thermal “protectants” allow every bit of that heat to affect the hair. You get the point.

Most products marketed for the use with thermal tools contains ingredients that essentially melt a temporary plastic coating onto the hair's surface. If you look at the ingredients, you'll find acrylics, polymers, vinyls, nylons and other plastics.  The coating deflects humidity and helps keep the hair smoother longer. So the term, "thermal protectant" really translates to "thermally applied, humidity protectant". It absolutely does not mean "protects hair from thermal styling damage". EVER.

Hair on the head is nothing more than dead organic matter. It only accumulates damage. It is in a constant state of decay. It can not be healed, it does not heal itself, and it never returns to "virgin". Dead materials can be coated with various things such as oils, preservatives, plastics and many other chemicals in order to give them longevity. The SP-S service fortifies the hair, for example. These coating eventually disintegrate. As far as hair goes, it starts off with it's own natural coating, the cuticle....kind of like the bark on a tree. Eventually, given enough exposure, the cuticle flakes off. So, one of the things that causes damage, to dead fibers, is heat. Usually, the greater the heat exposure, the worse the damage. Companies sell you the tools that create the damage and then sell you the “protectants” to supposedly protect you from that damage. The products might give the hair a nice smooth feeling, or make it lay flatter, or protect it from humidity....but none of those products protect your hair from the damage that extreme heat causes. Most of you already realize that because maybe you’ve noticed how dried out your hair feels if you don’t apply any of those products one day, and let it airdry.....nice, nasty dryness.....you can’t wait to flatiron in more product to make it feel better....I'd like to challenge anyone who believes in such protective products to do a simple test:
Dip your finger into whatever product you believe protects hair from heat. Let it sit a while. Then, when you're good and ready, flatiron your finger.
What just happened? You just burned the crap out of your finger because the product did not protect your finger at all from the heat. In addition, you probably have some half baked layer of goo coating your finger. But, look on the bright side, your finger is alive and will heal itself. Your hair does not have that capability, and is only worse off each time it is flatironed. What confuses the matter is the existence of people who seem to have healthy hair regardless of how many times they flatiron. They may truly believe it's the "heat protection" they use. In reality, it's a fact that some hair is just naturally more resistant to outside influences because the cuticle is is more like a brick wall than T1-11. They might be able to flatiron for years before damage begins to show. Lucky them. Most people however, will have damaged hair only after several thermal stylings at 450 degrees, especially if their hair is not virgin. If you have split ends, you can know without a doubt that you have managed to completely degrade your cuticle and your hair's insides have exploded open. Lovely.
So about the actual flatirons....If you boiled water in a glass pan, or cast iron, or copper, or ceramic, the water always boils at the same temperature. It doesn’t matter what pan the heat traveled through to get to the water. Likewise, no matter what material you flatiron your hair with, heat is still heat! Extreme heat causes damage, no matter what. As far as some flatirons “sealing in moisture”....that is just wrong. If the flatiron is at/above 212 degrees, the water will turn to steam and leave the hair. Most people set their flatirons at 300-400 degrees, so you can count on the fact that there will be NO water left in the hair after a flatironing. If the flatiron is not hot enough, moisture will still be in the hair until it evaporates naturally. If there’s moisture in the hair, curly hair will frizz up. Or if the hair is straight, and there’s still moisture in it, it won’t hold a curl. I’m not even sure how it became trendy to "lock" moisture in hair to begin with. It’s not a lack of moisture that differentiates virgin hair from damaged hair, it’s a lack of intact cuticle and internal bonds. The Yuko websight has some interesting information on moisture in hair. Basically, keeping hair moist for too long puts cracks in the cuticle. Similar to chipped paint on an outdoor wood fence. If the underlying wood gets wet and swells, it will crack the paint coating. They recommend drying the hair as soon as possible to reduce the swelling of the hair, and the potential cracking of the cuticle.......So, you could say that they are not in favor of sealing in too much moisture.

#12-My hair is fried. Will a Semi-Permanent straightening help?

The protective coating SP-S gives is effective for any kind of hair. If you are a person that piles on the leave-in treatments and serums in an attempt to improve the look of your hair, then you'll benefit from SP-S. There is no product out there that does a longer lasting, more effective job at improving the look of hair. SP-S doesn't fix split ends, but the coating prevents them from getting worse and prevents more from happening as long as you keep up with the coating. My personal recommendation is getting SP-S every 1-2 months if the hair is severly split and you are wanting to grow the hair out. After 2 or 3, start coming in every 3-4 months for maintenance.

Having said that, if your hair is so far damaged that it can not take at least 400 degrees of heat, then you are probably out of luck.  It takes at least 380-400 degrees to set a Semi-Permanent straightening.  

#13-Why does the cost vary so much for a Semi-Permanent Straightening treatment?

As far as semi-permanent straightening goes, UnSprung was the first salon in Portland to offer this service, March of 2007. The same calculation used for pricing other services was used to determine the price of semi-permanent straightening. Fast forward to now, it's purely coincidence that the price is the price is still on the lower side. That was not the plan, nor does it reflect any intention to undercut other salons, since there were no local salons to undercut in 2007 when the pricing structure was set. Other local salons have simply priced themselves higher. It is a unique predicament. 

In general, the going rate for any kind of straightening in Portland is around $100- $200 per hour. This price reflects overhead costs and personal stylist mark up. At UnSprung, the rate is $80/hour. The overhead is probably a little less than most, and the personal stylist mark up is as well.

As far as the cost of actual Semi-Permanent Straightening solutions goes, they range from $250-$380, per @32oz., which makes that @$8-$12 per ounce. The over all cost of solution has very little to do with the huge difference in cost between salons, no matter what brand is used.

#14- Why does your procedure and aftercare instructions differ from my previous stylist's?

Every stylist develops their own technique on most services in the salon. It doesn't necessarily mean different chemicals are used. Chemical services usually come with a "how-to" instructional, but those are basic guidelines that can usually be tweaked in order to customize the service. This goes for color, hair cutting, styling product application, perms, chemical straightening...etc

Below is a list of things I do, that are NOT a part of any companies "how-to" instructions, and therefore can confuse clients/stylists:

1.I wear a respirator. Not one company instructs a stylist to wear a respirator. 

2.I let the product sit for about 20 minutes before blowdrying.

3.I encourage the use of a respirator for the client. This is not recommended by any brand. It is done as a courtesy.

4.Clients with long hair are put under the dryer while I simotaniously blowdry the ends, in order to dry the hair faster. This might cut drying time in half, which saves time and keeps cost down. No company recommends putting the client under the dryer.

5.Ponytails, headbands, hats etc.... are typically forbidden by every company, before the first wash. However, we've found that absolutely none of those things has left an impression in the hair, with any brand we've tried. All we recommend is that the client smooth their before bed, and upon waking, and avoid all moisture and products.

6. A selling point for all companies is that color can be done before a SP-S, on the same day. This is true. No damage will occur. However, we've seen, a sometimes dramatic, difference in how a color might change up, if it's done the same day VS. a week before SP-S. If a client waits a week between color and SP-S, that seems to keep some color from lifting or going too brassy. Sometimes the week wait makes no difference, but most of the time, it makes a noticeable difference.

7. All companies claim to be the best, and all companies only recommend their own at-home hair care products. We have tried most of the brand specific hair care products and have found that they don't really make a difference, or extend the life of SP-S. Therefore, we don't sell them. This makes people think that we are using some off brand that does not have their own hair care products, which is incorrect.

There are probably more items of confusion. But, I'm sure you get the drift ;)

#15- Explain accumulation.

In general, each SP-S treatment adds a layer of laminate to the cuticle, smoothing it out a little more each time, up until about the 3rd-4th treatment.  At that point, the hair is probably as straight and long lasting as it will ever get. Some hair(mine, for example) goes really straight with one treatment. Other clients start really loving their hair only after 3-4 treatments. I've got clients who are mostly battling fuzz, who are now able to go every 6 months between treatments because they've had at least 3 treatments. 

In most cases, the first SP-S treatment(only 1 layer of laminate) lasts the shortest amount of time, and doesn't go the straightest. As each new layer is added, the effects last longer and go smoother, typically. Sometimes, this is absolutely not true and I've seen a handful of clients who's hair resists taking on any accumulation.
Clients can affect the amount of accumulation by the timing of their treatments. For more accumulation, SP-S appointments should be scheduled closer together. For less accumulation, a client needs to let most of the SP-S wear off between appointments. Some clients really don't want their hair too straight, so they might schedule their appointments 5-8 months, or more, apart.
The entire head is done with every SP-S treatment, so the root area will always ONLY have one layer. The ends could have multiple layers.
Let's say a client starts getting SP-S. On their first appointment, the entire head is coated. So there is one layer on the hair. Then, after 4 months, the client comes in again. (There will be @2inches of curly new hair at the root with no SP-S, and there will be the rest of the hair with a little SP-S still on the hair from the first appointment.) The entire head is treated again. That means that the first 2 inches at the scalp now have one layer and the rest now has two layers. The double layered parts will be smoother than the root area. So, the next time that client comes in, the entire head is done again. The first @2 inches of new hair will have one coating, the next 2 inches will have 2 layers, and the rest will have 3 layers......etc. If a person has shoulder length hair, they'll probably only have 4-5 coatings at their ends, at most. People with mid back length hair(like mine) will have many many more coatings at the ends.
If a client does not want too much accumulation in their ends, they could choose to only do their roots, and not layer over the ends every time.
Clients come in sometimes with other brands of SP-S already on their hair and that is no problem for accumulation. All brands pile on top of each other just fine.

#16- Can Semi-Permanent solution cause damage to hair?

No.
No.
and more NO. 

I can't even tell you the number of times clients have called and claimed their last stylist broke a bunch of their hair during a "keratin treatment", only to find it was actually a permanent straightening system, NOT A SP-S. 

Even still, there have been times when a new client did have fried looking highlights or something to that effect, and their last stylist used an actual SP-S system. In this case, the only way damage could occur during a semi-permanent straightening is with the flat iron or rough handling of the hair. BTW, both of these factors can lead to damage of anyone's hair, at any time... not just during a SP-S treatment. Ideally, the SP-S is set at 450 degrees maximum. Hair that is damaged(overly highlighted, overly flatiron, etc) might not be able to handle 450, so the temperature should to be adjusted accordingly.  If this is the case, and the iron has to be turned down, it will also shorten the longevity and smoothing capabilities of the treatment. Some stylists don't realize that they need to dial down the iron, hence....fried hair. 

#17- Why has the brand, Brazilian Blowout, come under scrutiny? And what about the other chemical toxins in the salon?

It started because a stylist found that Brazilian Blowout had marketed and sold them a product that was supposed to be formaldehyde free, and it wasn't. Many stylists chose to use Brazilian Blowout because the company specifically stated that their product was formaldehyde-free, in ALL their literature, on their websight and in their certification classes. This was found to be grossly false, along with several other claims they made. The false claims led to a huge lawsuit, which they lost. This is obviously bad because stylists used the product assuming it was non-toxic to them and their clients, and safety precautions were not taken. Their current original formula has methylene glycol, which is an aldehyde, and DOES gas off formaldehyde. Despite what they say. 

So, clients are left to figure out what this means to them. Basically, if a SP-S treatment works, it contains some chemical that is toxic on some level, to someone. Even if a product is truly "formaldehyde free", it doesn't mean it contains nothing toxic. It just means that there is some other chemical doing the work, in place of the formaldehyde. That replacement chemical could very well be worse than formaldehyde. I've tried the Brazilain Blowout brand and it works well, but decided to never switch, simply because they wouldn't say what was replacing the formaldehyde, and therefore, it would be a huge risk to blindly use their product. Of course, any company could be lying about what their ingredients are, even if they are listed on the bottle, but no other company has outright insisted that their product is completely different and safer than all other products, like the Brazilian Blowout brand has. As a client, you need to realize that all chemical services come with risks to your health. Some people will be very sensitive to certain chemicals, just like some people are very sensitive to peanuts. You never know which chemical might set you off. Certainly, many clients have endured a great deal of pain in order to be made "beautiful". Just make sure your services are done in very well ventilated area, and that you have access to a respirator if needed. The main point of this news regarding Brazilian Blowout is to reiterate the fact that companies will say anything to sell a product. It is up to the stylist to be smart and choose wisely who they deal with. The point isn't to stop all toxic services.  If that were the case, we'd have to stop doing all chemicals since all chemical services in the salon are toxic to someone.

Having said all that, my question is, will all the stylists who stop using Brazilian Blowout because of discovered toxicity, also stop using every other chemical in the salon until it has been analyzed as well? Or will they choose to trust that all the other companies are selling something "wholesome"? Since we're now questioning the Brazilian Blowout brand, what about all the other brands....when was the last time a colorist asked for a list of ingredients of the color products they use? How about questioning whats in the gasses coming off of bleach hi-lites? How many stylists leave the industry every year because they can't handle the collective fumes anymore?.....This dialogue is way bigger than some stylist in Portland Oregon claiming to have been duped by a product company. Hopefully this current focus on Brazilian Blowout, will lead to the bigger and more alarming ACTUAL issue of stylist and client safety, and maybe stylists will start demanding to know the facts about the other chemicals that have plagued our health for years. The scary thing is that plenty of "known" carcinogens fill up our chemical bottles at the salon and no one bats an eye.

More on what's been plaguing us:
Hairdressers and barbers have had higher rates of certain cancers for most of the last century. This is NO NEW NEWS and this started way before Keratin Treatments/SP-S came along. The chemicals in hair color, perms, nail products, hair styling products, electronic tools, makeup...have been implicated in everything from simple contact dermatitis to full on cancer. Hairdressers have been dealing with back pains, varicose veins, carpal tunnel, asthma, eczema, contact dermatitis, non-lethal allergic reactions, chemical sensitization, latex sensitivity, chronic lung infections, anaphylactic reactions, sinus trouble.....and yes, cancer. Below are several links for people who are surprised to find out that chemicals used in the salon contain known carcinogens:

1. http://mesothelioma.n0winn0fee​s.com/hairdressers-and-mesothe​lioma-cancer-2

2. http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com​/doi/10.1002/ijc.11040/abstrac​t

3. http://oem.bmj.com/content/67/​5/351.full

4. http://www.ei-resource.org/col​umns/multiple-chemical-sensiti​vity/hair-dressers-at-risk-of-​cancer:-safer-alternatives/

5. http://www.medicalnewstoday.co​m/articles/102088.php

6. http://www.asbestos.com/occupa​tions/hairdressers.php

Link to Formaldehyde: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F​ormaldehyde

Plenty of other people across the globe deal with toxic chemicals every day, in all kinds of workplaces. Until hair stylists are willing to get serious about the chemicals they use, their rates of cancer will continue to increase as new formulas hit the market that have side effects which won't be known for years. Hairdressers don't demand good ventilation, and they don't take personal precautions against exposure to fumes and chemical contact, for the most part. It's pretty absurd that hairdressers are not already wearing respirators during chemical services, and it's amazing how insufficient the ventilation is in most salons. There are industries in which employees are required to wear respirators while handling chemicals LESS toxic than those used in the everyday salon. The warning labels on color and perms read just like the ones on the SP-S. If the government has to step in to protect us from ourselves, salons will start looking more like clean rooms.

So, ultimately:
1.The government needs to crack down the the crack pot advertisers and products...
2.The stylists need to stop being so gullible and in denial of the seriousness of their workplace and their health.
3.All chemical services in the salon are potentially toxic.
4.In order to avoid ill health effects, stylists and clients have the choice to stop doing chemical services, or protect themselves from exposure.

#18-Article from WWD. New straightening by Bumble&Bumble and L'Oreal

The salon giants are looking to capitalize on the Brazilian Blowout hair-straightening controversy.

Bumble and bumble, the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.-owned brand, and L’Oréal Professionnel are both coming out with their own versions of hair-smoothing treatments that are formaldehyde free. The products are aimed at capturing a market that was severely shaken after the hugely popular Brazilian Blowout brand was targeted by government investigations in the fall over health concerns related to its products, which certain labs found can produce traces of formaldehyde. Brazilian Blowout’s probe pushed the market’s other entries into investigations, too.

A number of smaller, independently owned competitors, such as Brazilian Gloss Keratin Smoothing Gloss and Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy, had previously developed hair-straightening formulas containing methylene glycol, which when heated at a certain temperature is said to produce traces of formaldehyde, like Brazilian Blowout, a brand that became so popular it is commonly used as a term for the service itself.

The Cosmetic Industry Review, an independent panel group, is studying these hair-straightening formulas, and a ruling is expected Sept. 26 or 27 on the question of whether the products are safe. The CIR’s decision was originally scheduled for June. But the submission of a 200-page document attesting to product safety by a Professional Keratin Smoothing Council, a group made up of manufacturers of smoothing treatments, caused CIR to postpone a ruling on the matter for 90 days.

Both Bumble’s and L’Oréal Professionnel’s services, while vastly technologically different from one another — and from the smoothing treatments under question on the market — are intended to offer salons straightening options. And despite the negative attention smoothing treatments have generated, sales of the segment remain “on fire,” according to Peter Lichtenthal, president of Bumble and bumble.

Kerry Bohm, manager, global marketing, said the number of straightening services hitting the market in 2010 was 19, up from three in 2009; overall salon industry services grew 4.5 percent, driven by straightening services, a figure that stands out in an industry that has been in decline.

While no data firm tracks how large the hair-straightening category is, it’s known that Brazilian Blowout, like its competitors, sells its formula by the liter, charging salons about $350 a liter, which ultimately represents about $9,000 in service sales for the salon. In a 12-month period, considering all the salons in the U.S. that offer hair-smoothing treatments, that is estimated to represent hundreds of millions of dollars, if not $1 billion, in service revenue.

In October, Bumble and bumble will launch Concen-straight Pro Treatment to 1,200 of Bumble’s network salons. The launch marks Bumble’s first-ever in-salon treatment, one that is designed to last up to 30 shampoos and can be customized to allow customers to adjust the straightness level of their hair. Since Bumble now sells to retailers as part of its distribution model, at-home straightening kits will also be a component of the rollout, as will a hair care line, Bumble and bumble Straight, consisting of a shampoo, conditioner and leave-in styler.

L’Oréal Professionnel, the largest salon brand globally, has launched a chemical straightening service, Xtenso Moisturist, albeit on a much smaller scale — to about 12 salons.

Bumble said it recognized the intense desire for straightening treatments and claims to have found room for improvement in the market. Concen-straight Pro’s technology, which is also in the hair care line, consists of a gemstone blend that is designed to vibrate and loosen hair’s inner S-bonds, which give it natural curve, said Fadi Mourad, executive director, product development. Polylysine, an amino acid, aims to refine and realign these S-bonds into smoother shapes. A silicone blend was added to seal and set shape straight for smoothness. A hydrolyzed wheat protein is used to condition hair (and is only in the professional treatment) and is used as a keratin replacement, since keratin is derived from animals. The formula, ultimately, opens the door to customize straightness, so a blow-dryer can build bend, a curling iron can rewind hair and a flatiron can render it straight, said Mourad. The service also aims for increased manageability and overall reduced frizz and flyaways. The hair care collection that was designed to support the service features Bumble’s first sulfate-free shampoo.

While Bumble is blowing out its service to half of its salon base, Laurie Lam, director of marketing, L’Oréal Professionnel USA, said they have chosen to take a preview strategy with Xtenso Moisturist, like it did with ammonia-free INOA.

“We are the number-one salon brand in the world. We could very easily get the sales we [ultimately] want, but it’s really about making sure it is being used safely and efficiently,” Lam said of the preview launch, which is now sold in a number of select salons, including select Gene Juarez salons in Seattle and and Pr & Partners (CT). Lam expects Xtenso Moisturist to be sold in 30 salons by mid-2012, including New York’s Dop Dop and Anthony DiFranco.

Unlike Bumble’s service, Xtenso Moisturist “is much like a chemical straightening service. We don’t compare ourselves with keratin, because keratin is surface treatment, where you don’t chemically change the hair. Xtenso Moisturist is indeed a chemical service.”

Yet, said Lam, it is also customizable.

“You can go for loose waves or slick, straight chopstick hair. It wears out over time,” she said, adding that there are three different formulas available depending on the client’s hair and whether it is untreated virgin, resistant or sensitized hair. A service can take between two and four hours, and all stylists are taught to perform a 15-minute strand test to determine a client’s hair type. The service consists of a shampoo, a mask and then an application of the formula to four separate sections of the head. After a customized processing time, hair is rinsed, dried, flatironed and then neutralized for 10 minutes and rinsed and dried again.

“It is very specialized and technical,” said Lam, explaining its $250-plus cost and 48-hour wait time to wash hair after receiving the service.

Women receiving Bumble’s straightening service, which retails for about $385, are advised to wait 24 hours before washing their hair, so “the technology can penetrate.”

Bumble’s Concen-straight Pro Treatment takes about two hours in the salon: Hair is washed with a clarifying shampoo, the formula is applied from roots to tips, after 30 minutes the formula is washed out and a consultation begins on how straight, wavy or voluminous a client wants her hair. A customized blowout and flatiron (if applicable) follows. Clients are expected to see the treatment beginning to wear off at 30 shampoos.

To help support the hair care line, travel sizes of Bumble and bumble Straight, as well as sample packets, will be available at launch. A comprehensive education training program, which includes a video on how to best deliver the Concen-straight is being filmed, too. The at-home version, which will sell for $45, is designed to last for 30 washes and employs the same technology as the in-salon service, just at a lower level. It launches in stores and salons Jan. 1.

“Nothing takes the place of what happens at the salon,” said Lichtenthal.

#19- Is there a good DIY Semi-Permanent brand?

Ion Keratin Smoothing

http://www.sallybeauty.com/keratin-smoothing-treatment/ION116,default,pd.html

Many clients would benefit from a DIY SP-S treatment, especially for the fuzzies around the face that tend to pop out well before the entire head needs a treatment.  Many requests have been made to the favorite in-salon brand to launch a take-home version, and hopefully someday that will be available.
In the mean time, Ion Keratin Smoothing Treatment is the best so far of the take-home versions.  3, 1/2 & 1/2 heads have been done so far, comparing Ion to Global's current resistant formula.  Global goes flatter and reduces the volume more than the Ion treatment.  However, the Ion treatment does take the hair to about the same straightness as Global initially, but wears off about 2x as fast.
Currently, the Ion Keratin Smoothing Treatment is the favorite take-home keratin treatment available at Sally's Beauty Supply.

#20- Notification of class action lawsuit against Brazilian Blowout

The day after a mass email was sent by Brazilian Blowout, apologizing for the continued bad publicity of their product,(but in no way actually apologizing for their marketing tactics), papers outlining the class action lawsuit against Brazilian Blowout arrived to the salon.  Anyone who has ever purchased products from Brazilian Blowout is automatically included in the lawsuit, unless they take action to remove themselves from the lawsuit. The grounds for complaint are solely that the company misrepresented their product. 

The made the following claims that were categorically false;

1. The product is made in America(actually made in Brazil, but packaged in L.A.)

2. Totally free of any toxic anything(actually contained the highest levels of formaldehyde of any brand)

3. So natural, even pregnant stylists and clients are safe using it(absolutely false and this claim started it's own category of lawsuits again BB)