There are at least 2 reasons why dandruff can happen after a semi-permanent straightening.
1.The product that adheres to the hair can also adhere to the scalp. As the scalp skin cells shed, the product sheds off as well, creating large flakes. It is fairly impossible to keep every speck of product off the scalp, so the product that ends up on the scalp gets cooked on during the flatironing.
2.The semi-permanent straightening product can upset some people's skin and start them on a path of flakiness that can last months. Not sure why.
Either way, the quickest way to resolve this is:
1.Prior to shampooing, with the hair totally dry, exfoliate the scalp using a scratchy comb, brush or whatever works. Scrub the skin, lift up the flakes, then shampoo and condition as usual. You might need to exfoliate the scalp prior to the first several shampoos as the skin can take a week or so to shed and release the stuck on product.
2.Use a dandruff shampoo that does not contain Sodium Chloride. After exfoliation, shampoo with the dandruff shampoo of your choice. Really work it into the scalp and then let it sit for several minutes. Rinse and condition as usual.
I started wearing a respirator, long before I started doing Keratin
Treatments, at the recommendation of my E.N.T.. I had irritation in my
throat and sinuses from breathing in the ammonia gas that comes off of
Permanent Straightening. The following describes the toxicity of ammonia
"What is ammonia’s mechanism of action?
Ammonia interacts immediately upon contact with available moisture in the skin, eyes, oral
cavity, respiratory tract, and particularly mucous surfaces to form the very caustic ammonium
hydroxide. Ammonium hydroxide causes the necrosis of tissues through disruption of cell
membrane lipids (saponification) leading to cellular destruction. As cell proteins break down,
water is extracted, resulting in an inflammatory response that causes further damage.
What are the immediate health effects of ammonia exposure?
Inhalation: Ammonia is irritating and corrosive. Exposure to high concentrations of ammonia
in air causes immediate burning of the nose, throat and respiratory tract. This can cause
bronchiolar and alveolar edema, and airway destruction resulting in respiratory distress or
failure. Inhalation of lower concentrations can cause coughing, and nose and throat irritation.
Ammonia's odor provides adequate early warning of its presence, but ammonia also causes
olfactory fatigue or adaptation, reducing awareness of one's prolonged exposure at low
The doctor considered my irritation quite severe. At the time, I was
doing @8-10 hours of permanent straightening per day, and breathing in
ammonia gas the entire time. SO! In comparison to that, the Keratin
Treatments don't feel toxic at all. :) There is formaldehyde gas that
comes off during the flat ironing part, but unless it blows directly
into the face, it is not detectable. Whereas, the Ammonia gas that
comes off during a permanent straightening is very very noticeable and
would affect everyone on our floor if we didn't ventilate. When a
Keratin Treatment is done without ventilation, the fumes don't even
make it into the hallway past our door.
The bottom line is that both are toxic to breath in. And, some people
are going to be really sensitive to the fumes of both, and some people
are not going to be sensitive to either. I happen to be a very
sensitive person to fumes, so the only way I could continue to work
with either method is with the use of a respirator. Many hairdressers
quit the business because they can't tolerate the fumes or the handling
of product. And, many clients avoid the straightening services because
they don't want the exposure. Wearing a respirator solves that problem
for both stylists and clients.
The unique thing about the Keratin Treatment is that it's new and there
are no long term affects known to hairdressers, yet. Also, the
unfortunate thing is that some companies are marketing the product as
"all natural", insinuating that it's non-toxic, which is totally
deceptive. Therefore, hairdressers and clients incorrectly assume that a
stylist wearing a respirator must be dealing with a "bad, toxic, under
the table" version of Keratin Treatment solution. This couldn't be
further from the truth at our salon. I wear a respirator because I'm
dealing with gasses of known toxicity, and unknown long term affect, on
a daily basis. It would be just plain stupid to put myself in an
environment with ANY potential exposure on a daily basis, and not
protect myself. I've done a couple Keratin Treatments's without the
respirator, and it doesn't affect me negatively like the permanent, but
it would be foolish to think that means it's not going to ever affect
me. If I had to choose which process was the most toxic, I would pick
the permanent straightening since I can feel the negative affects
immediately. Also, this might be too much info, but if I do a permanent
straightening without gloves and respirator, I can smell ammonia the
next morning in my urine. Very much like the asparagus phenomena. That
tells me that the ammonia is getting in my system somehow, going
through it, and then coming out. That is scary. I have never noticed
that with the Keratin Treatments, but that certainly doesn't vouch for
We wear gas masks with an attached particle filter, during the Keratin Treatments because during
the flat ironing, a smoke comes off that includes fine little particles
of polymer amongst other things. This is very irritating to breath in.
This particulate clogs up our fans, our window screens, and the backs
of our blowdryers. We don't want it clogging up our lungs.
I new ventilation system is on its way that will "scrub" the air, and hopefully will make wearing a respirator a thing of the past. This new ventilation should be in place my 11/1/15.
Keratin does not straighten the hair. Keratin is not a new found ingredient, and has been available, along with all the other types of proteins, for many years. There are plenty of excellent protein treatments out there(Noiraude Pro, Nigelle DS, PPT heat polymerizing protein treatments...) that build up the hair, but they've never had straightening abilities. And if you overuse some proteins, the hair gets crunchy and dry, and even cause breakage from the hair getting so brittle. A good protein treatment lasts @ a month or two,and over time can really protect the hair and keep it in optimal health. Now imagine taking that protein treatment and adding a catalyst that would give straightness..... now we're talking Keratin Treatments as we know them today.
When it comes to the actual purpose of keratin in current Keratin
Treatment formulas, it might very well add a strengthening or
fortifying component, just like a standard protein treatment. Removing
keratin from a KT might take away the strengthening affect, and whatever
improved texture it might give to the hair over time. However, no
matter what, the keratin is not responsible for the actual straightening
effect. A KT minus the K, would still go straight.
Pretend that all the KT formulas are like all of the various brownie
recipes. You can add extra goodies to a basic brownie recipe(nuts,
frosting, marshmellows....), but it's not required. With the KTs, the
various companies add their "flavor" to the basic working formula, but
they're all considered "KTs" because the chemical reaction is basically
the same,despite the added "flavor". They might add things for shine,
smell, weight, softness, etc. And some KTs really do feel better in the
hair. Some do not interact with artificial color as much. Some are 4
day wait, some are 2....all based on the way they put the ingredients
together. They all tweak the amount of the various
s of formalin, glycols....) to add longevity or stickability, or simply just to make it different than the next guy.
Below is a list of ingredients of a brand of KT we've tried:
water, keratin, propylene glycol, cetearyl alcohol, cetrimonium
chloride, formaldehyde, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane &
In general, the formalin and the Glycol-related-ingredient get together
to create plastic/polymer which temporarily fixes the hair's bonds in
place. Both the Formalin and Glycol have many chemical siblings that
product plastics and polymers, such as Nylon, Teflon, Permanently
Pressed Clothing, etc...Keratin is the 2nd ingredient from the top, but
it is NOT what straightens the hair. Water is the first ingredient,
and it does not straighten the hair either....Realize that hair itself
is made of keratin, and it does not straighten itself....
The ingredient "formaldehyde" should be correctly listed as Formalin or
whatever it's liquid state name would be. Formaldehyde is a gas and
could not actually be in this bottle of solution. For those of you that
think that there are laws enforcing the strict labeling of chemical
ingredients, think again. For this reason, it's actually true for a
company to say their formula is "formaldehyde free", even if it
contains aldehydes. It's all very murky.
A quick Wikipedia search sums up the overall concept :
Here is another interesting websight on plastics:
#24- What are the differences between Keratin, Brazilian straightening and Semi-Permanent straightening?
They're all the same, more or less. Some just call themselves
"Brazilian" and some call themselves "Keratin". There are many brands
of these products on the market.
All of the Keratin treatments, Brazilian Treatments, etc, follow the general format given below:
1.Treatment solution is applied to clarified and towel dried/or blown dry hair.
2.let to sit from 0-30 minutes to absorb
3.blown dry completely
4.flat ironed at @350-450 degrees, or blow out with a blow dryer and round brush for shorter lasting results.
6.Smooth out frizz and curl to various degrees.
7.contains some source of precursor a polymer
8.cost @$250-360 wholesale for @32-33oz bottle of solution.
9. 0-4 day waiting period before 1st wash, after treatment.
10.Treatment takes @ 1.5-5 hours depending on thickness, length, dry timing, number of stylists working on a client.
11.Going price is @150-450, which completely depends on stylist mark
up. The various solutions do NOT vary more than @$8-11 per oz. A
treatment will use @1-4 oz/client depending on hair.
12.All companies we've seen so far say to only use products that are sodium chloride free.
13.These treatments do not break bonds within the hair, they over ride
the bonds. The effects are usually not permanent and usually wear off in 1-4
months depending on which product is used. The coating adds shine in
14.These treatments can be done over all other chemical treatments
including Sodium Hydroxide products, Thio products, and color services.
15.These products hit the market in @2007, in America.
If the product you're looking to use, generally follows the above
guidelines, then we lump them into the Keratin category. The reason for
the term "Brazilian" is because the technology of over riding bonds
instead of breaking them, seems to have started in Brazil. Some of the
products available here in America are shipped from Brazil. Some are
made in America.
Most companies use different forms of formalin,ether or aldehyde, and
some member of the metholyene glycol family, but they are ALL pretty
much the same technology. When these products are flatironed, they all
gas off to some degree. Companies can say they are "formaldehyde free"
because the solution at room temperature does not contain formaldehyde
gas. However, when the solution is heated, some form of formaldehyde
gas, or other gas, is created and released.
have found that the Keratin Treatment is definitely NOT usually
impressionable as long as the hair does not get wet. I've worn my hair up in
clips the entire waiting period, without a problem. HOWEVER, this will
not apply to everyone, and you run the risk of impressions if you do
2.At night, I resort to using a large silky scarf, Beyonce style. I comb the hair
down smooth and tie the scarf over the top. I find that if I use a
cotton scarf, that helps wick some oil off the scalp. This keeps the hair smoother during sleep and it keeps it out of my face.
3.I also use blotting papers for wicking oil off the scalp and
hairline. Since the hair is coated, the natural oil is not absorbed at
all into the hair like it normally would be. Instead, it slides down
4.As many times during the day as possible, I warm up my hair with the
blowdryer and brush through it, detangling it and transferring some of
the oil down the hair. This also helps to removed hair that has shedded
out, but is still stuck in the hair.
5.I have not found any solution for the "sprouts". Even after wearing a
scarf for hours, the sprouts come back. After the first couple of
shampoos, they are sometimes still there! People usually think that
these are evidence of breakage. They 99% of the time, are not. The
reason "sprouts" happen is because the KT gives a nice strong coating to
all the hairs on the head. Every time a hair sheds, one starts
growing. There are little hairs, of all lengths, constantly growing
out. The KT coating keeps the shorter hairs standing up because they
are simply too lightweight to tip over. Once the hairs reach @ 2-3
inches long, they are usually heavy enough to tip over. So, all the
hairs from 0-@2 inches are the only ones standing up. Not a problem at
1.have relatively virgin hair and are NOT intending to ever do highlights or home color jobs
2.have thick course hair
3.can spend @$900/year
4.want to permanently kill the curl bonds, and never want the curl back in the hair that is treated
5.want your hair to airdry as straight as possible
6.plan to maintain your hair with high end products formulated for chemically treated hair
7.are not necessarily growing out your hair and are willing to get regular trims
8.are willing to deal with the curly new growth in between
straightenings, which will be up to 4 inches, and you are okay with a
definite line of curly hair vs. straight hair
9.don't mind getting split ends a little quicker, and having to use
conditioning treatments to maintain as much shine and health as
10.can spend potentially 6-10 hours(the average is @7) in the salon.
.......then go for the Permanent Straightening(TR, Japanese Straightening).
1.have either virgin or damaged hair: highlights, overprocessed color, thermal styling damage, split ends
2.fine hair to thick course hair
3.can spend @$320-640/year
4.want to preserve your hair's full strength, and only want to override your curl
5.want the option of blowdrying for ultimate straightness, or airdrying
for more body. Or, if you want to keep a blow out or curling set longer
6. do not want to be obligated to purchase high end products, and in
general would like to have a budget friendly up keep program
7.are growing your hair out and want to trim as little as possible
8.want to deal with as little new growth as possible, and if you do not want a definite line of curly vs. straight hair
9.want the most shine and conditioning and preservation of the hair's health without having to use additional products daily
10.can only spend 2-4 hours in the salon
11.think that at some point you want all your curl back, and you like
the idea of it being able to revert back to your natural hair
........then go for Semi-Permanent Straightening(Keratin Treatment)
#21-I was told that Coppola's Keratin Complex is the only truely semi-permanent straightening system
attending the Oct.26th, 2009 Coppola Keratin Complex class at
UnTangled Salon, we realized why stylists are telling potential clients
that all other Keratin Treatment's are permanent, except the
Coppola.(We attended the class only because we were told the new clear
formula would be demonstrated...which it wasn't. Very disappointing.)
During the class, the instructor actually said that all other forms of
keratin treatments and Brazilian-KTs go permanently straight, except
the Coppola. I asked how she came up with that idea, and she said
that's what she was taught. This same trainer said that she has trained
everyone currently using the Coppola Keratin Complex here in Portland,
Oregon, aside from a small window of time. This means that most
stylists here will have incorrect information.
Here is the real trouble. Any stylist or client who has not done
research might actually believe something like," all other KTs are
permanent." Eventually, they will realize their error in thinking, but
for stylists, it might be too late. Because of the internet, clients
today are very savvy and will loose trust in a stylist who turns out to
be uninformed. Unfortunately, we've gotten several clients who
intended to go to other salons, but when they talked with the stylist
performing the procedure, they realized the stylist knew less about the
world of KTs than they did.
So, if you're a stylist that has ONLY had training or experience in the
Coppola Keratin Complex, you're in need of more education. It is
foolish to automatically believe everything that is told to you by a
person selling you a product. Especially when that person has had no
experience with other brands and knows nothing outside the training
given to them by the company they work for. I have a hard time
believing this is still possible in a world with so much access information.
Here's my schpeel,
Seriously, I LOVE it. I switched from Japanese straightening my hair at
Shige Kosuda's salon in Manhattan, to Keratin Treatments in Spring of
2007. My hair is bra-strap length and NO split ends. The protection the
KT gives is completely new in the world of hair. No other conditioner,
treatment, protein pack, etc.....actually coats the hair and fortifies
it like a KT. NOTHING. We've carried all the really nice at-home
Japanese treatments, and have done the various in-salon treatments for
clients over the years. And, we really loved them.....up until now ;).
As far as I'm concerned, the KT process replaces and improves upon ANY
other treatment that can be done on the hair to improve health. I have
highlights, lowlights, and really long old thin pathetic hair, which is
only healthy because of the KT. I took very very good care of my
japanese straightened hair, and still would get split ends when my hair
reached collar bone length, simply because Permanent straightening is a
bond breaking procedure and weakens the hair, no matter how well it's
done. Where as the KT is a coating procedure, not a bond breaking
procedure. All the bonds are still strong and connected after the KT,
they're just overridden by the KT treatment coating. Forget for a second
that the KT also smooths down the fuzzies, this treatment is perfect
for ANYONE who has trouble growing healthy hair. Now, no amount of KT
coating will protect the hair from frequent flatironing damage. People,
you need to stop the flatironing if you want healthy hair, period. But
for those of you who don't flatiron and still get damage, like myself,
it can be pretty frustrating because you know you're doing everything
you can to pamper your hair. I'm telling you, give the KT a year(3-4
treatments) and you'll be seeing a definite, noticeable difference.
You'll feel a difference after one treatment, but the reason I say give
it year is because if your hair is already fried, it's fried. The
coating will make it feel better, but ultimately the hair is fried.
Putting the coating on it will keep them from getting worse off, but if
the ends are already split, there's nothing worse than that, so you
just need to trim off the splits. But all the hair following that, will
be preserved so well, and multiple treatments really do accumulate up
to @3, and fortify the hair amazingly well. In a year, 6 inches of new
hair will have grown, and hopefully, 6 inches of old hair have been cut
off potentially, so you will really feel like you have a new head of
hair. I haven't had one client who didn't notice a difference in the
health of their hair after the KT treatment. AND, they stopped using
their expensive conditioners mainly because they contain Sodium
Chloride, and the hair still felt so much better. There is definitely a
place for really nice conditioners, but none of them really fortify or
preserve the hair beyond several shampoos and they can cost ultimately
way more money over a 4 month period than a KT treatment,
depending on what you're buying. I'm currently using the Alba Coconut
shampoo and conditioner from New Seasons(health food store) because I
love the smell, and it does not contain Sodium Chloride. It's a decent
product line, but not the world's best, but it really doesn't matter
because I'm washing KT coated hair. It's not the shampoo and
conditioner keeping my hair healthy, it's the KT.
What else can I say about it......I'm shocked that every single salon
is not doing this process. It's such a benefit for the client's hair.
Not to be overly dramatic, but with all the other toxic chemical
services happening in salons(acrylic nails, bleach fumes, ammonia
fumes, aerosol sprays in the air), it's ridiculous to avoid this one.
One would react equally bad to a room full of bleach fumes as they
would KT fumes, or Ammonia fumes.
The manufacturers recommend avoiding salt. Salt can dissolve keratin off the hair. Salt can be listed in many ways.
4.Sodium PCA(up for debate)
Salt is in many conditioners as well as hand lotions, facial
lotions and leave in treatments. You can easily transfer salt to your
hair with lotioned up hands, or by applying facial lotion then allowing
hair to fall into the face.
Sodium Laurel Sulfate and other Sodium-related ingredients are
NOT a problem. Sulfate-free shampoos can still contain Sodium
Chlorides, so check the label.
We used to keep a list of Salt-Free products, but companies reformulate so often, it was impossible to keep up.
Before a KT,
everyone's porosity and texture differ enough that they
require particular products. After a KT, many of those differences are
done away with because of the KT coating. After a KT, you're now
washing the coating on the hair, not actual hair.
Using a really expensive shampoo to
wash the coating is usually not necessary. Most people have switched to some over-the-counter product, that's usually less expensive than what they were using before. NOW, there are always
exceptions. If a client's SCALP is uniquely sensitive to an ingredient,
then they still need to use something particular. As the KT wears off,
some clients gradually start using their more expensive products, if they
need, as long as there is no salt.
Having said all the obligatory "stay away from salt" mantra, here's
what we've seen over the years. Sometimes, people have realized
that the products they've been using after their KT, contain salt. Most
of the time, it does not seem to make a difference in longevity of the
KT at all. Since we started doing KT's in 2007, we have seen that most
people who inadvertently use salt have no problem at all, including
going in the ocean or sweating. However, there are some who swear
it makes an enormous difference. My opinion is that some people's hair holds onto
the KT regardless of what they use and some people's hair will use any
excuse to shed the KT coating. I never know who's hair will react in
what way. At times, we've wondered if the manufacturers say to
avoid salt in order to sell a "salt-free" product. But, since no one
has really explained how salt really affects the KT, our sincere
recommendation is that all the "rules" be followed after the first KT.
Eliminate all the variables that would create unknowns. Then after a
client gets the general feel for how their hair handles the KT, they
can begin to introduce variables and note what happens.
Here's the deal. All of the keratin manufacturers say not to style the hair in any way before the first wash, after the salon treatment process. However, over the years, clients would confess that they had, in fact, worn ponytails, clips, headbands, etc, and no mark was left. So, a contest was started which would reward a client with a free year of straightening, if they could leave a mark in their hair by any means, other than chemistry(sweat, rain, product...) Clients, in great effort to leave marks, did corn rows, micro braids, ponytails, bobby pins, headbands..... everything they could think of. Even after a year or so of all this craziness, not a single mark was ever left. Most of the mark-making-attempts were photographed and emailed to Global Keratin as proof that marks were basically impossible to leave in the hair. When asked, "why do you advise clients not to wear ponytails, tuck it behind the ear, etc...", they said that ultimately, we(the stylists) are the experts and could advise the clients however we saw fit. It's clear, however, that when a stylist says something contrary to what the manufacturer says, its the stylist that will look uninformed, not the manufacturer. This point was brought up to them, to which they replied, "Your client should trust that you are doing what's right for them..."
Humm..... so basically, I've never seen a mark left, other than if someone got their hair wet, or put product in the hair during the wait period. I personally wear a head band, and ponytail the entire duration of the wait period. Most clients do as well.
Really, people ask this all the time. I'm frustrated with all the individuals promoting products that claim to actually prevent heat damage. These products include leave-in conditioners, serums, sprays and even flat irons themselves.
Heat from thermal tools is what straightens or curls hair. The hotter the thermal tool is, usually the faster it works. If a product stopped heat from reaching the hair(thermally protecting the hair), the hair would not straighten or curl, when heated. If you could straighten your hair without heat, you wouldn’t have to turn the thermal tool on..... Heat is what styles the hair and heat is what damages the hair. And all of the thermal “protectants” allow every bit of that heat to affect the hair. You get the point.
products marketed for the use with thermal tools contains ingredients that
essentially melt a temporary plastic coating onto the hair's surface. If you look at the ingredients, you'll find acrylics, polymers, vinyls, nylons and other plastics. The coating deflects humidity and helps keep the hair smoother longer. So the term, "thermal protectant" really translates to "thermally applied, humidity protectant". It absolutely does not mean "protects hair from thermal styling damage". EVER.
Hair on the head is nothing more than dead organic matter. It only
accumulates damage. It is in a constant state of decay. It can not be
healed, it does not heal itself, and it never returns to "virgin". Dead
materials can be coated with various things such as oils,
preservatives, plastics and many other chemicals in order to give them
longevity. The KT service fortifies the hair, for example. These
coating eventually disintegrate. As far as hair goes, it starts off
with it's own natural coating, the cuticle....kind of like the bark on a
tree. Eventually, given enough exposure, the cuticle flakes off. So,
one of the things that causes damage, to dead fibers, is heat. Usually,
the greater the heat exposure, the worse the damage. Companies sell
you the tools that create the damage and then sell you the
“protectants” to supposedly protect you from that damage. The products
might give the hair a nice smooth feeling, or make it lay flatter, or
protect it from humidity....but none of those products protect your hair
from the damage that extreme heat causes. Most of you already realize
that because maybe you’ve noticed how dried out your hair feels if you
don’t apply any of those products one day, and let it airdry.....nice,
nasty dryness.....you can’t wait to flatiron in more product to make it
feel better....I'd like to challenge anyone who believes in such
protective products to do a simple test:
Dip your finger into whatever product you believe protects hair from
heat. Coat it fully. Let it sit on there a while. Then, when you're
good and ready, flatiron your finger.
What happened? You just burned the crap out of your finger because the
product did not protect your finger at all from the heat. In addition,
you probably have some half baked layer of goo coating your finger.
But, look on the bright side, your finger is alive and will heal
itself. Your hair does not have that capability, and is only worse off
each time it is flatironed. What confuses the matter is the existence
of people who seem to have healthy hair regardless of how many times
they flatiron. They may truly believe it's the "heat protection" they
use. In reality, it's a fact that some hair is just naturally more
resistant to outside influences because the cuticle is is more like a
brick wall than T1-11. They might be able to flatiron for years before
damage begins to show. Lucky them. Most people however, will have
damaged hair only after several thermal stylings at 450 degrees,
especially if their hair is not virgin. If you have split ends, you can
know without a doubt that you have managed to completely degrade your
cuticle and your hair's insides have exploded open. Lovely.
So about the actual flatirons....If you boiled water in a glass pan, or
cast iron, or copper, or ceramic, the water always boils at the same
temperature. It doesn’t matter what pan the heat traveled through to get
to the water. Likewise, no matter what material you flatiron your hair
with, heat is still heat! Extreme heat causes damage, no matter what.
As far as some flatirons “sealing in moisture”....that is just wrong.
If the flatiron is at/above 212 degrees, the water will turn to steam
and leave the hair. Most people set their flatirons at 300-400 degrees,
so you can count on the fact that there will be NO water left in the
hair after a flatironing. If the flatiron is not hot enough, moisture
will still be in the hair until it evaporates naturally. If there’s
moisture in the hair, curly hair will frizz up. Or if the hair
is straight, and there’s still moisture in it, it won’t hold a curl.
I’m not even sure how it became trendy to "lock" moisture in hair to
begin with. It’s not a lack of moisture that differentiates virgin hair
from damaged hair, it’s a lack of intact cuticle and internal bonds.
The Yuko websight has some interesting information on moisture in hair.
Basically, keeping hair moist for too long puts cracks in the cuticle.
Similar to chipped paint on an outdoor wood fence. If the underlying
wood gets wet and swells, it will crack the paint coating. They
recommend drying the hair as soon as possible to reduce the swelling of
the hair, and the potential cracking of the cuticle.......So, you could
say that they are not in favor of sealing in too much moisture.
The protective coating the KT gives is effective for any kind of hair. If you are a person that piles on the leave-in treatments and serums in an attempt to improve the look of your hair, then you'll benefit from the KT. There is no product out there that does a longer lasting, more effective job at improving the look of hair. The KT doesn't fix split ends, but the coating prevents them from getting worse and prevents more from happening as long as you keep up with the coating. My personal recommendation is getting a KT every 1-2 months if the hair is severly split and you are wanting to grow the hair out. After 2 or 3, start coming in every 3-4 months for maintenance.
Having said that, if your hair is so far damaged that it can not take at least 400 degrees of heat, then you are probably out of luck. It takes at least 380-400degrees to set a Semi-Permanent straightening. Trying to process it at less heat would probably a waste of money.
Currently, Global Resistant is the formula of choice.Any prospective brand is tested by applying it side by side to the current favorite brand, on the same head. This is a "1/2 & 1/2" head experiment. Typically, after the first wash, one side looks better than the other. However, letting that client live with the two sides for a month or two, longevity of each brand can be compared. Some brands look similar immediately after a treatment, but give them a month and one might out perform the other.
Brands put to the test:
Marcia Teixeira Brands- Advanced formula(24 hour wash), Chocolate Extreme defrizzing formula, Origional formula
Coppola- Keratin Complex
Global- 4% Chocolate, 4% Strawberry, Curly Formula, New non-food smelling formula
Inoar- Origional system
Zeran- Origional system(this was marketed as a better BKT. IT is more of a really bad Japanese style)
Agi Max- Chocolate treatment
Lasio-origional formula, spray on type
Organix Brazilian Keratin Treatment(over the counter formula
Pravana Keratin Fusion
From 2007-2009- Marcia Teixeira was favorite. Oct-Nov. 2009-current-Global is preferred.
the client who wanted to know more about Brocato's straightening
product=> Brocato's Curlinterrupted Smoothing System looks like an
air-neutralized, probably cisteamine based(or some other similar
ingredient), bond breaking chemical service. It is "Time" based which means that the
treatment can damage hair if left on too long. This is NOT the same
technology as current Keratin Treatments even though a keratin spray is
used.(keratin has been used in straightening systems for years and
years. Keratin does not straighten hair...) Current Keratin
Treatments(BKTs, KTs) do not degrade the hair's natural state at all.
Keratin Treatments are NOT time based because "time" has nothing to do
with the treatments effectivness. They are Heat set only.
Because the Curl Interrupted is not chemically neutralized, the bonds
that have been rearranged are very likely to revert, which the company
says they will in fact do within 8-12 weeks. The only trouble is that
multiple treatments with any type of product like this(time sensitive)
WILL severely degrade the hair over time.
"Shared Appointment" is a new option on the services menu, but it's
been going on for some time. Before 2010, if 2 or more people drove in
together from out of town, they might have wanted to sit with each
other during their appointments. One client would start and during any
down time, the second client could be started. This saves about an
hour over all, but each client ends up sitting and waiting @30-45
minutes longer than a normal appointment. If a client normally takes 3
hours, it might take 3.5 hours for a shared appointment. It saves each
It is a little more complicated to schedule a shared appointment, so here's how it goes:
1.A 5 hour gap in schedule needs to be available at the salon(This
usually means the shared appointment will need to be booked a little
2.Another client will need to be paired up. If this doesn't work out, the appointment will be billed at $160.
3.If two people are paired up, and one no-shows, the appointment will be billed at $160.
4.During the waiting time, a client is able to do what ever they'd like....walk around, pester the neighbors, nap....
5.If a shared appointment is booked, but one of the spots does not get
filled at least 24 hours before the appointment, the appointment will
become a regular appointment unless other arrangements are made.
For obvious reasons, it would be ideal to know the person you're being
paired up with. But, if that is not the case, you are trusting that
the person will show up and do "their share".
far as semi-permanent straightening(Keratin Treatments) goes, UnSprung
was the first salon in Portland to offer this service, March of 2007.
The same calculation used for pricing other services was used to
determine the price of semi-permanent straightening. Fast forward to
now, it's purely coincidence that the price is the cheapest(as of
2011). That was not the plan, nor does it reflect any intention to
undercut other salons, since there were no local salons to undercut in
2007. Other local salons have simply priced themselves higher. It is a
unique predicament. Clients of UnSprung can rest assured that prices
will not be increased to better fit in with the current pricing trends
for semi-permanent straightening.
In general, the going rate for any kind of straightening in Portland is
around $100- $200 per hour. This price reflects overhead costs and
personal stylist mark up. At UnSprung, the cost for Semi-permanent
straightening breaks down to $53.33 per hour. The overhead costs are
@$13.33 per hour for semi-permanent straightening, and the stylist mark
up is @$40/hour.
As far as the cost of actual Keratin Treatment solutions goes, they
range from $250-$380, per @32oz., which makes that @$8-$12 per ounce.
The over all cost of solution has very little to do with the huge
difference in cost between salons, no matter what brand is used.
stylist develops their own technique on most services in the salon. It
doesn't necessarily mean different chemicals are used. Chemical
services usually come with a "how-to" instructional, but those are
basic guidelines that can usually be tweaked in order to customize the
service. This goes for color, hair cutting, styling product
application, perms, chemical straightening...and keratin treatments.
Below is a list of things that are NOT a part of any companies "how-to"
instructions, and therefore confuse clients/stylists trying to assess
what exact service is being done at UnSprung:
1.I wear a respirator. Not one company instructs a stylist to wear a
respirator. I do that all on my own, for my own peace of mind. I wear
the respirator during ANY chemical straightening service.
2.I let the product sit for about 20 minutes before blowdrying. This is
not a standard step with any brand other than Coppola, which
recommends up to 30 minutes.
3.I provide a respirator for the client. This is not recommended by any brand. It is done as a courtesy.
4.Clients with long hair are put under the dryer while I simotaniously
blowdry the ends, in order to dry the hair faster. This might cut
drying time in half, which saves time and keeps cost down. No company
recommends putting the client under the dryer.
5.Ponytails, headbands, hats etc.... are typically forbidden by every
company, before the first wash. However, we've found that absolutely
none of those things has left an impression in the hair, with any brand
we've tried. All we recommend is that the client smooth their before
bed, and upon waking.
6.At UnSprung, the price for a Keratin Treatment is $160. That alone
makes clients/stylists think we must be using an inferior brand, or are
doing something other than what they're doing at their salon. All
brands tried and used, are listed on this sight. Please see the full
explanation for the cost breakdown, under Discussions.
7.A selling point for all companies is that color can be done before a
Keratin Treatment, on the same day. This is true. No damage will occur.
However, we've seen, a sometimes dramatic, difference in how a color
might change up, if it's done the same day as a Keratin Treatment. If a
client waits a week between color and Keratin, that seems to keep some
color from lifting or going too brassy. Sometimes the week wait makes
no difference, but most of the time, it makes a noticeable difference.
8.All companies claim to be the best, and all companies only recommend
their own at-home hair care products. We have tried most of the brand
specific hair care products and have found that they don't really make a
difference, or extend the life of a Keratin Treatment. Therefore, we
don't sell them. This makes people think that we are using some off
brand that does not have their own hair care products, which is
There are probably more items of confusion. But, I'm sure you get the drift ;)
general, each service smoothes out the hair a little more, up until
about the 3rd-4th treatment. At that point, the hair is probably as
straight and long lasting as it will ever get. Some hair(mine, for
example) goes really straight with one treatment. Other clients start
really loving their hair only after 3-4 treatments. I've got clients
who are mostly battling fuzz, who are now able to go every 6 months
between treatments because they've had at least 3 treatments. That's
why the Trio Package is available on the services menu. This is for
people who need quick accumulation.
In most cases, the first KT lasts the shortest amount of time, and
doesn't go the straightest. My hair has had @12 KT treatments(as of
5/10) and the ends do not get curly any more before my next treatment.
They do get broomy and fluffy looking, but not actually curly. My
roots are obviously curly, and there is fuzz over the top of my head,
but the ends are still smooth because of all the layers.
Clients can affect the amount of accumulation by the timing of their
treatments. For more accumulation, KT appointments should be scheduled
closer together. For less accumulation, a client needs to let most of
the KT wear off between appointments. Some clients really don't want
their hair too straight, so they might schedule their appointments 5-8
months, or more, apart.
The entire head is done with every KT treatment, so the root area will
always ONLY have one layer. The ends could have many layers.
Let's say a client starts getting KTs. On their first appointment, the
entire head is coated. So there is one layer on the hair. Then,
after 4 months, the client comes in again. (There will be @2inches of
curly new hair at the root with no KT layer and there will be the rest
of the hair with a little KT still on the hair from the first
appointment.) The entire head is KT'd again. That means that the
first 2 inches at the scalp have one layer and the rest now has two
layers. The double layered parts will most likely be smoother than the
root area. So, the next time that client comes in, the entire head is
done again. The first @2 inches of new hair will have one layer, the
next 2 inches will have 2 layers, and the rest will have 3
layers......etc. If a person has shoulder length hair, they'll
probably only have 4-5 layers at their ends, at most. People with mid
back length hair(like mine) will have many many more layers of KT at the
If a client does not want too much accumulation in their ends, they
could choose to only do their roots, and not layer over the ends every
Clients come in sometimes with other brands of KT already on their hair
and that is no problem for accumulation. All brands seem to pile on
top of each other just fine.
and more NO. The only way damage could occur during a semi-permanent
straightening is with the flat iron. Ideally, the semi-permanent
straightening is set at 450degrees. There are some heads of hair that
are already damaged enough that processing the hair at 450 would cause
enormous damage. If this is the case, the iron has to be turned down
which will also shorten the longevity and smoothing capabilities of the
treatment. Iuse a 4% solution. Recently, 2 clients from Syria came in
and had a KT solution of 15% used on their hair. One client is heavily
highlighted mid back length, and one is virgin haired mid back length.
They had the treatment 8 months ago. The treated hair is smooth when
blown dry and curly when wet. They each had a good 4 inches of
obvious grow out. They had ZERO breakage. I have 4 clients who are
all from Brazil and they used an Italian brand that was so high they
couldn't breath...not good, I know....but the point is that they had
ZERO breakage as well. I tried Agi Maxx a couple years ago and it was
7% back then, and didn't notice any breakage on the models. .
If a KT results in breakage, it's most likely the flatironing or some other reason.
started because a stylist found that Brazilian Blowout had marketed
and sold them a product that was supposed to be formaldehyde free, and
it wasn't. Many stylists chose to use Brazilian BlowOut because the
company specifically states that they are formaldehyde free in all
their literature and on their websight and in their classes. This is
obviously bad because stylists used the product assuming it was
non-toxic to them and their clients, and safety precautions were not
taken. Stylists were performing Keratin Treatments using the Brazilian
Blowout brand without proper ventilation.
So, clients are left to figure out what this means to them. Basically,
if a Keratin Treatment works, it contains some chemical that is toxic
on some level, to someone. Even if a product is truly "formaldehyde
free", it doesn't mean it contains nothing toxic. It just means that
there is some other chemical doing the work, in place of the
formaldehyde. That replacement chemical could very well be worse than
formaldehyde. I've tried the Brazilain Blowout brand and it works
well, but decided to never switch simply because they wouldn't say what
was replacing the formaldehyde, and therefore, it would be a huge risk
to blindly use their product. Of course, any company could be lying
about what their ingredients are, even if they are listed on the
bottle, but no other company has outright insisted that their product
is completely different and safer than all other products, like the
Brazilian Blowout brand has. As a client, you need to realize that all
chemical services come with risks to your health. Some people will be
very sensitive to certain chemicals, just like some people are very
sensitive to peanuts. You never know which chemical might set you off.
Certainly, many clients have endured a great deal of pain in order to
be made "beautiful". Just make sure your services are done in very
well ventilated area, and that you have access to a respirator if
needed. The main point of this news regarding Brazilian Blowout is to
reiterate the fact that companies will say anything to sell a product.
It is up to the stylist to be smart and choose wisely who they deal
with. The point is not to stop doing Keratin Treatments. If that
were the case, we'd have to stop doing all chemicals since all chemical
services in the salon are toxic to someone.
Having said all that, my question is, will all the stylists who stop
using Brazilian Blowout because of discovered toxicity, also stop using
every other chemical in the salon until it has been analyzed as well?
Or will they choose to trust that all the other companies are selling
something "wholesome"? Since we're now questioning the Brazilian
Blowout brand, what about all the other brands....when was the last
time a colorist asked for a list of ingredients of the color products
they use? How about questioning whats in the gasses coming off of
bleach hi-lites? How many stylists leave the industry every year
because they can't handle the collective fumes anymore?.....This
dialogue is way bigger than some stylist in Portland Oregon claiming to
have been duped by a product company. Hopefully this current focus on
Brazilian Blowout, will lead to the bigger and more alarming ACTUAL
issue of stylist and client safety, and maybe stylists will start
demanding to know the facts about the other chemicals that have plagued
our health for years. Formaldehyde, by the way, is a "probable"
carcinogen. After all these years, it still hasn't been labeled
"known". The scary thing is that plenty of "known" carcinogens fill up
our chemical bottles at the salon and no one bats an eye.
More on what's been plaguing us:
Hairdressers and barbers have had higher rates of certain cancers for
most of the last century. This is NO NEW NEWS and this started way
before keratin treatments came along. The chemicals in hair color,
perms, nail products, hair styling products, electronic tools,
makeup...have been implicated in everything from simple contact
dermatitis to full on cancer. Hairdressers have been dealing with back
pains, varicose veins, carpal tunnel, asthma, eczema, contact
dermatitis, non-lethal allergic reactions, chemical sensitization,
latex sensitivity, chronic lung infections, anaphylactic reactions,
sinus trouble.....and yes, cancer. Below are several links for people
who are surprised to find out that chemicals used in the salon contain
umns/multiple-chemical-sensiti vity/hair-dressers-at-risk-of- cancer:-safer-alternatives/
Link to Formaldehyde: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F
Plenty of other people across the globe deal with toxic chemicals every
day, in all kinds of workplaces. Until hair stylists are willing to
get serious about the chemicals they use, their rates of cancer will
continue to increase as new formulas hit the market that have side
effects which won't be known for years. Hairdressers don't demand good
ventilation, and they don't take personal precautions against exposure
to fumes and chemical contact, for the most part. It's pretty absurd
that hairdressers are not already wearing respirators during chemical
services, and it's amazing how insufficient the ventilation is in most
salons. There are industries in which employees are required to wear
respirators while handling chemicals LESS toxic than those used in the
everyday salon. The warning labels on color and perms read just like the
ones on the keratin treatments. If the government has to step in to
protect us from ourselves, salons will start looking more like clean
1.The government needs to crack down the the crack pot advertisers and products...
2.The stylists need to stop being so gullible and in denial of the seriousness of their workplace and their health.
3.All chemical services in the salon are potentially toxic.
4.In order to avoid ill health effects, stylists and clients have the
choice to stop doing chemical services, or protect themselves from
Kerapure is a brand of keratin treatment that claims to be non-toxic. A sample of the product has been sitting at the salon for @1month for testing. The reason it has not been used is because of the following:
1.The fine print in the info packet sent along with the sample states that there is actual gassing off of formaldehyde, even though it's a small amount and under the amount that requires disclosure. With the way they go on about the ills of formaldehyde on their websight, it's amazing that they actually include ingredients that gas off at all.
2.In the into packet, they compare formaldehyde levels in solution of other brands with the gassing off in theirs. This type of comparison is irrelevant and uninformative. They claim "No Toxic levels of formaldehyde", which means the product does contains formaldehyde. If it didn't contain any formaldehyde, it would would say "formaldehyde free". Global's current "2011" formulas are not on the list, only last years.
3.No where do they claim the hair is straightened out, only smoothed
4.Results typically last 2-3 months, according to them. That's 2-3 months less than the typical longevity of Global's current resistant formula. Some people come in every 2 months, but usually because of grow out issues, not reversion issues.
At this point, even if KeraPure was 100% non-toxic, it would not replace Global's current resistant formula in the salon based on KeraPure's own claims of longevity and expected straightening results. Only products with potential to replace the current favorite are tested due to the time/effort required in testing.
Ion Keratin Smoothing
Many clients would benefit from a DIY keratin treatment, especially for the fuzzies around the face that tend to pop out well before the entire head needs a treatment. Many requests have been made to the favorite in-salon brand to launch a take-home version, and hopefully someday that will be available.
In the mean time, Ion Keratin Smoothing Treatment is the best so far of the take-home versions. 3 1/2 & 1/2 heads have been done so far, comparing Ion to Global's current resistant formula. Global goes flatter and reduces the volume more than the Ion treatment. However, the Ion treatment does take the hair to about the same straightness as Global initially. Longevity has yet to be determined, but so far it's been about a month out and aside from the over all fluffiness of the Ion side, it's holding up well.
Currently, the Ion Keratin Smoothing Treatment is the favorite take-home keratin treatment available at Sally's Beauty Supply.
For some unknown reason, access has been denied to the former blogspot, so a new one has been created. All posts will be transferred over to this location. All posts from the previous blog will be numbered.